News > Review: Tristan’s Buttermilk Dinner – Nate Dreams of Dairy

Tristan‘s Chef Nate Whiting can do no wrong in our book. He is constantly churning out modern culinary creations that tease and please the palate and look like art on a plate. His creativity was on full display Thursday night at a “Buttermilk Dinner” where he created dishes that celebrated the humble ingredient.

Farmers, chefs, and gourmands sat at one communal table and had lively discussions about everything from cooking sous vide (cookbook author Nathalie Dupree was the only person that said they are not a fan) and debating what the best sous vide machine is to sustainable farming, while spreading bright yellow buttermilk butter on soft yeast rolls and sipping wine. It was quite the convivial group with chef Jimihatt and Celeste and George Albers in the mix.

Whiting sent out an amuse bouche that everyone fawned over and wanted more of– a chicken crackling dotted with red hot honey. This may sound simple but Whiting employed many techniques including pureeing, dehydrating, and frying to get the result he was after.
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A carbonara with a 64-degree egg and pancetta, with scalded buttermilk emulsifying the egg, was inventive and delicious.
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The main course was a compressed square of tender buttermilk-brined veal served with buttermilk potato puree with a mushroom-mustard-coffee jus. Dessert had everyone at the table singing a collective chorus of “mmmmnnnn” as we savored every bite of buttermilk cheesecake served with blackberry-maple frozen yogurt and pecan shortbread crumbles. The colors, textures, and flavors in the dish worked beautifully together and showed off Pastry Chef Amanee Neirouz‘s dazzling talent.

Whiting came out to introduce each course and explain a bit about his techniques. The dinner was an interesting culinary challenge for him, inspired by Diane St. Clair‘s The Animal Farm Buttermilk Cookbook. As if that wasn’t enough goodness for one night, each guest got to take home the cookbook and a surcee of maple-pecan fudge tied in kitchen twine. Twas a sweet night indeed.

words and images: Dee Dee Arthur